Feb. 21, 2025: Beauty News to Know
Beauty legislation, some seriously good gossip involving a brand you probably haven't heard of, and name-dropping a few of my beauty-editor friends.
Welcome back to Glossed Over, a bi-weekly experiment in how honest I can be about brands without getting kicked off their press lists (joking).
New York Fashion Week has come and gone—hallelujah! My friend Jamie Schneider at WhoWhatWear wrote an impressive beauty trend report that covers everything you need to know on that front. And since I wasn’t there myself, I won’t bother paraphrasing her work.
Earlier this week, I went to an Allergen Aesthetics event (the brand behind Botox—ever heard of her?) where I had the pleasure of injecting a prosthetic head with lip filler. Otherwise, I’m still pretty deep in the haze of a life working two jobs, planning a wedding, growing this Substack, and trying not to cry every day. Against all odds, I will survive!
I also got another round of Clear + Brilliant (I documented the first two rounds on my Instagram). Here’s how I looked immediately after:
I’m going to keep it short and sweet up here since this one’s a little longer than the previous two.
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Beauty’s Biggest Headlines
Marie Claire is all in on beauty (Glossy)
TLDR: Marie Claire is betting big on beauty with the launch of its annual digital beauty issue. According to editor-in-chief Nikki Ogunnaike, this will kick off several ongoing beauty franchises, including a new bi-weekly beauty newsletter called Face Forward, as well as a general commitment to delivering more beauty content. Beauty director Hannah Baxter (who also pens bi-monthly Substack, Anxiety Beer) says the publication has seen a lot of success covering topics pertaining to a Millennial audience, though she emphasizes that the beauty strategy is far from set in stone.
The Glossed Over Take: First, I want to start with a disclaimer that I do have a contributor contract with Marie Claire, though I’m not currently working on any stories (but, like, I’m available). Obviously I love this! My friend Sam Holender is Marie Claire’s senior beauty editor and churns out a crazy amount of work for the publication, so I hope this means she got a big fat raise. Selfishly, I also hope this means the beauty team gets a larger freelance budget—this isn’t Marie Claire-specific, but alongside several rounds of in-house layoffs, publications have been notoriously slashing freelance budgets across the board. Marie Claire has a stellar beauty team, and a win for beauty is always a win for me, so I’m excited to see what’s to come.
A new California bill aims to ban the sale of anti-aging skincare products to shoppers under 18 (New York Times)
TLDR: The headline above pretty much sums it up; the bill would require anyone purchasing anti-aging products to provide proof they’re 18 or older. According to the Times, it would cover over-the-counter cosmetic products with ingredients like retinol, retinoids, vitamin C, glycolic acid, and citric acid. This comes after an earlier version of the bill, which sought to ban the sale of anti-aging products to shoppers under 13, failed last May. It’s worth noting that California is a major consumer market—it has the fifth-largest economy in the world—so the bill, if passed, would undoubtably have national implications.
The GO Take: This is a very stupid bill. Before today’s Sephora Kids, there was me, regularly playing trick-or-treat at the various beauty kiosks in Nordstrom. I’m a life-long beauty gal, and I’ve burnt my face over-using acids and retinoids more times than I can count. I understand that the collective youth interest in beauty is higher than ever, but what’s really the harm here? I turned out just fine. Actually, my skin is kind of amazing these days. Let’s break down a couple major issues here, starting with the obvious: California has much bigger problems to deal with right now. Then, there’s the fact that this bill is clearly written by someone without adequate information. The term “anti-aging” has no official definition and it isn’t monitored by the FDA. That means a brand can slap the label on any product, alongside “acne-safe,” “sensitive-skin friendly,” and a host of other hollow claims—it quite literally does not mean anything. Next, we have to consider the particular ingredients mentioned. Sure, they can have some anti-aging benefits depending on the formulation, but they can also help with, say, acne and texture, two issues quite common in teenagers. We haven’t even touched on how law-makers plan to enforce the ban. Not to mention the countless other ways kids will still come in contact with these products—it’s surprisingly easy to swipe a bottle of serum from your mom’s shelf without her ever knowing.
Give Back Beauty shares plans to grow Britney Spears’ fragrance brand (Cosmetics Business)
TLDR: Give Back Beauty, an Italian brand incubator behind Blake Brown (yes, Blake Lively’s recent flop) and Florence by Mills (Millie Bobby Brown’s beauty brand), is now in control of the licensing partnership behind Britney Spears’ fragrances. This comes as the result of a transition agreement with Revlon through subsidiary Elizabeth Arden, which was oddly the longtime licensee of the fragrance brand—but I won’t bore you with the semantics and legal minutiae beyond that. Give Back Beauty says it has a “comprehensive plan” to elevate the existing fragrances and launch new products—the first set to debut in 2026. Spears made a vague comment about how she loves connecting to her fans through fragrance, but I can’t find the original source for it so I’m hesitant to quote.
The GO Take: My immediate thought here is not particularly novel and it’s certainly not new. Leave Britney alone! I have no idea how involved she is with this new iteration of the brand, if she is at all. With that being said, Kylie Jenner, Billie Eilish, and Ariana Grande all have fragrance lines of their own—and the perfumes are pretty good. It’s worth noting that all three are available at Ulta, sold alongside the likes of Dior, Marc Jacobs, and Viktor & Rolf. That positioning has helped elevate them above the celeb fragrances of yesteryear and really legitimize them in consumer eyes. I’m sure Spears’ offerings will follow a similar path—though there is something delightfully Britney about selling perfume at Walgreens and Walmarts. Is nostalgia (and guilt) enough to fuel a successful brand? Probably, for at least a year or so.
Beyoncé’s Cécred is coming to Ulta this April (WWD)
TLDR: One year after launching Cécred, Beyoncé Knowles-Carter is celebrating with a big announcement: The haircare brand will be available in Ulta stores starting April 6. This will also include a “first-of-its-kind integration with the retailer’s salons.” The partnership marks the largest exclusive hair brand launch in Ulta history, and its newly appointed CEO, Kecia Steelman, says it’s going to be major: “It’s going to be very prominent, front-and-center with life-sized fixtures and bottle amplification. We’re going to amplify this in a way that we’ve never done before in our salons. It’s going to be a total 360-degree approach.” Cécred has won 30 beauty awards in just a year on the market, and currently has 16 patents pending for technologies in its formulas and packaging—all of which sounds impressive.
The GO Take: Many are saying this feels like a natural move, given that the brand’s ethos has always been about reaching—and working for—as many consumers as possible. I agree, though that’s also why I had flirted with the idea of Rhode going to Ulta last edition. I actually haven’t tried any of the products from Cécred—there just isn’t really anything for me yet given my hair type and preferences. (I’m open to trying the Clarifying Shampoo & Scalp Scrub but I hate the feeling of those little exfoliating particles in my hair, so I probably wouldn’t be giving the brand a fair shot.) If and when the brand launches a dry shampoo, I’ll be all over that. Anyway, this is a good move and it feels right. I’m excited for more people to have access to the brand.
Creative powerhouse Drew Elliot leaves MAC for a brand you probably haven’t heard of (Puck)
TLDR: Drew Elliot resigned from his position as MAC Cosmetics’ global creative director earlier this week. Apparently he’ll be joining the team at Kiko Milano, a brand oft referred to as the “Italian MAC.” Though one of the most celebrated creatives at the company, his departure seems to be under very tense terms—Rachel Strugatz repeatedly said he was “basically shown the door” after sharing the news with the Estée Lauder Companies executive leadership team (Lauder owns MAC). It gets a bit juicier though. Enter: John Demsey, a former Lauder exec who was forced out in 2022 after an offensive Instagram meme (you can read more about that here). Demsey was largely responsible for MAC’s golden era in the 2000s and 2010s—he hired Elliott back in the day. He also happened to join the Kiko Board of Directors as an advisor last year. Probably not a coincidence the two men are back at the same brand.
The GO Take: There are a lot of complications around Demsey that I don’t want to get into here, simply because we don’t have the adequate time to unpack it. He made a career uplifting (and capitalizing on) diversity in beauty; he posted an inappropriate joke; he faced the consequences of his actions; and he is an undeniable expert in the beauty industry—all these things can be true at once. I imagine stealing Elliot away from Lauder probably felt like a big old “fuck you” for him. What’s most interesting to me is the Kiko Milano of it all. I’d heard the name before but only really became familiar with it around a year ago, when the PR team reached out about a one-on-one call with its managing director of North America. She sent over a ton of products and spoke at length about the brand’s ambitions to make it big in the U.S. I still use a limited-edition mini eyeshadow palette (no longer available but this one is quite similar), this eyeshadow single, and this lip gloss. There are a few other products I’ve kept in my collection and have been meaning to try. Solid brand! We still don’t know Elliot’s new title at the brand and what that entails. I’m not a betting woman, but if I were, I’d probably bet on Demsey and Elliott and their ability to spin beauty-brand gold.
Fresh on the Shelves
Ilia Eye Stylus Shadow Stick ($32)
Release Date: Available now on Ilia’s e-commerce site and Sephora.
What It Is: The Eye Stylus Shadow Stick is aptly named—it is, in fact, a stylus-like stick of cream eye shadow. The formula is waterproof, sweatproof, and crease-resistant for up to 12 hours. There are 20 shades and two finishes (eight matte and 12 shimmer), all inspired by the richness and luminosity of Renaissance oil paintings. The stylus itself has a unique angled tip that, according to the brand, makes application a breeze, whether lining, defining, or blending all over.
The GO Take: There’s a great backstory to this launch. It was originally slated for September 2023—I remember getting the samples. The product itself was great, but the sticks were prone to breakage, so much so that many of the press packages (mine included!) arrived with only a few left intact. After multiple editors shared concerns with the Ilia team, they ultimately decided to postpone the launch and rework the packaging. I’ve mentioned before that this is a move I really respect. A brand that listens to feedback stays winning. The formula was slightly tweaked to help strengthen the stick and minimize breakage, but it still has that same creamy glide and long-lasting strength we loved so much in the original batch. Eyeshadow sticks were having a bit of a moment in 2023—Rare Beauty, Milani, Fenty, and Hourglass all launched their own that year. I’m betting the delayed launch will help Ilia stand out more than it would have otherwise.
Versed Skin Solution Multi-Serum Skin Tint ($19.99); Sheer Stay Liquid Eyeshadow ($13.99); and Cashmere Color Smoothing Lip Blush ($10.99)
Release Date: Available now on Versed’s e-commerce site and Target stores.
What It Is: When Versed launched in 2019, it came right out the gate with 19 skincare products, so it follows suit that the brand announced its foray into the makeup space with 14 new offerings (in over 60 shades). I’ve chosen to highlight three here, simply based on what I find most interesting. The skin tint—which is pegged as a hydrating serum with mineral SPF 40—feels like a natural extension from a skincare brand. It comes in 14 shades, all with a lit-from-within, skin-like finish. It also has a seal of approval from the National Rosacea Society. The liquid eyeshadow is described as a highlighter for your eyes, meant for an effortless daytime look. The formula, which comes in five shimmer shades, applies as a cream and sets like a powder. It has some skincare-adjacent ingredients in it, but honestly, I don’t think that’s important for an eyeshadow. Finally, the Cashmere Color is a lightweight tinted balm that leaves behind a blurred, velvet-y finish with a subtle sheen. It comes in five shades and features shea butter and camellia oil to hydrate the lips. The brand also launched a concealer, blush stick, bronzer stick, highlighter stick, mascara, brow gel, lip gloss serum, lip mask, lip scrub, primer, and a brush that you can check out here. This comes on the heels of the brand’s recent rebrand.
The GO Take: I love a launch that feels true to a brand, and that’s particularly hard to pull off when entering a new category. Versed managed to stick the landing with this all-in approach—it feels unfussy, which is what I want from a beauty brand sold at Target. Versed cast a wide net here, giving you a full face of makeup at once. So while some products felt totally spot-on (and predictable), others were delightful surprises. Based on the images in the press materials, I feel like there should be a few more shades between the tan and deep offerings but I’m hesitant to stand behind that statement with my full chest before seeing them in person. I’m especially excited to try the liquid shadow—I love how it’s described as a highlighter for your eyes. It feels like it’s the exact product I’ve been looking for when it comes to in-office makeup (right now, I usually use a mix of blush, bronzer, and highlighter on my eyes). I love that the lip blush feels different from a lot of what’s on the market right now—it would’ve been so easy for them to just make another classic tinted lip balm. I’m very curious to see how Target shoppers will feel about these launches.
Saie SuperSuede Baked Powder Blush ($28)
Release Date: Available now on Saie’s e-commerce site and Sephora.
What It Is: Saie’s third blush is a baked powder with a soft-focus effect. The launch is aptly inspired by Italy, given that the country is known for its top-notch baked powder innovations. The formula includes olive-derived squalane and jojoba esters for hydration support, kaolin clay to help prevent caking (and sop up excess oil, though the press release doesn’t mention that), and mica and silica for that blurred finish. The SuperSuede Blush comes in six shades, all named after Italian-ish words/names—the soft-rose hue is called “Mia,” which, according to Google Translate, means “my” in Italian; I’m not sure if it’s supposed to be taken literally or just meant to be a pretty Italian name. According to the brand, the formula is lightweight, long-wearing, and noncomedogenic.
The GO Take: When I think about Saie, two thoughts immediately come to mind: First, I don’t think it gets adequate recognition for its innovative formulations. And second, the brand excels at making products that make me feel like the prettiest version of myself—I especially love the Slip Tint, Glossybounce Lip Gloss Oil, and the Slip Tint Radiant Concealer. So, yes, I will absolutely be trying these blushes. Of the six shades, four (Bella, Grazie, Stella, and Mia) appear to be perfect matches for Dew Blush shades (Baby, Dreamy, Poppy, and Rosy, respectively)—I’d assume the intention is for users to layer them to set and intensify. Formula-wise, the highlighted ingredients are similar to those of many new setting powders, which I think we’ll be seeing more of. In line with my two praises above, I have two small gripes here. The press release describes the blush as “the first of its kind on the market,” without any sort of elaboration. I am very confident that it is probably a great blush, but I can’t figure out what about it is particularly novel. And as much as I love Saie—and I really, really do—I really dislike the brand’s use of “clean” beauty rhetoric. For me, it cheapens the really impressive work Saie has done. Oh, and one more note: This is one of at least three powder blushes launching in the next few months and they all look quite similar. Perhaps I can do a fun little comparison once I’ve had enough time with each (I’m thinking a matrix of some sort?!).
Most Valuable Product
Kilian Paris Princess Eau de Parfum ($150 for 50 ml; $37 for 10 ml)
Why It Stood Out: This is my first Kilian Fragrance, and its full name is “I Don’t Need a Prince By My Side to Be a Princess,” which just tickles me with glee. Princess is a warm and spicy gourmand with notes of ginger, green tea, marshmallow, jasmine, and bergamot. It smells softly sweet and almost simple at first spritz, but quickly evolves into something more complex and deep, especially with that kick of ginger. I’d describe it as an elevated, grown-up gourmand fragrance. It’s been my go-to all winter long.
Final Thoughts
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100% agree with the new CA law. It’s so silly