Feb. 7, 2025: Beauty News to Know
LED lights, celebrity endorsements, new fragrances, and more.
Hello everyone!
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It’s been a buzzy fortnight for beauty, and the headlines are sure to keep coming with New York Fashion Week around the corner. It’s a never-ending parade of madness I try to avoid as much as I can, but if there’s any meaningful beauty news to glean from it, I’ll be sure to report.
Oh, a quick note. My mom recently asked me what I thought about the Yuka app, apparently it’s quite popular in her circle. Here is my official statement: Don’t bother with it. The app capitalizes on fear and clean rhetoric to label products as good or bad, with an inconsistent scoring system that lacks sound scientific reasoning. Remember, natural does not mean better. Let me know if you’d be interested in a deep dive here.
Before we get into it, a few housekeeping items and follow-ups from last issue:
The Rhode Lip Shape hype has, in fact, gotten to me. This Substack from esthetician/writer Jolie De Feis was particularly compelling. I called in a few of the shades (they should be arriving some time today) and will share my thoughts promptly. Ever since I realized filler did little to help my sad, skinny upper lip—which we can get into at a later date—I’ve been on the hunt for anything that will help create the illusion of volume. I’m hoping this will do the trick.
The Rare Beauty Liquid Contour is fine enough. If you can find a good shade for your skin tone and you like the blush, you’ll like this. Nothing particularly note-worthy to report.
As for the Crown Affair duos, I got a lovely blowout after using the volumizing set that lasted around three days—which is quite impressive given my oily scalp. I’m finishing up my current bottles of the original shampoo and conditioner before switching over to the new formula.
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Beauty’s Biggest Headlines
Rhode reportedly finds a retail home (Puck)
TLDR: Rachel Strugatz broke news that Rhode has allegedly reached a deal with Sephora and could be available in stores within the year. This is no small deal given that Rhode made around $90 million in the last two months of 2024 alone. It also resurfaces the eye roll-inducing Hailey Bieber vs. Selena Gomez rival, given Gomez’s Rare is available exclusively at Sephora and the brand’s dot-com (though I don’t know a single person who’s ever purchased something directly from Rare).
The Glossed Over Take: Yet another huge scoop from Strugatz; I dream of having a rolodex like her’s one day. I wasn’t sure where Rhode would end up—or if it’d even go into a retailer at all, given its immense success. Rhode’s prices align more with Ulta in my mind, but Sephora is notoriously the place to be. I have no interest in the Bieber vs. Gomez of it all, I find the whole thing exhausting and, frankly, pretty boring. Though I do wonder if Rhode’s Sephora sales will top those of Rare. I don’t have any numbers, but I know Rare does exceptionally well at Sephora—it’s definitely one of the top-selling makeup brands. But Rhode is major. I’ll circle back here once we get more details on the deal.
Gen Z stars are stepping into the beauty endorsement game (Elle, People)
TLDR: Within a single hour on Tuesday morning, I was sent two press releases announcing new beauty ambassadorships: Tate McRae for Neutrogena and Reneé Rapp for L’Oréal Paris. A couple months go, Lancôme named Olivia Rodrigo its latest global brand ambassador. While Armani attempted to target Gen Z with its Gen A crew of medium-famous 20-somethings in years past, these three newer endorsements feel far more meaningful.
The GO Take: It’s nice to see celebrities in the beauty space who aren’t launching yet another new brand. Honestly, these endorsements don’t mean all that much—they’re really just marketing tactics—but as a general rule of thumb, I take the makeup ones a bit more seriously. I doubt McRae actually uses any Neutrogena products regularly; maybe the makeup remover wipes. Meanwhile, Rodrigo wore a full Lancôme look to the Grammys and will likely continue to do so for other major events. I’m a little surprised Rapp was tapped for the role, given her whole stick-it-to-the-man aura—perhaps it’s a sign of interesting things ahead for L’Oréal Paris. I’m cautiously optimistic for the return of the celebrity beauty brand endorsement. I think it’d be cool to see younger brands get in on the game too—something like Merit and, I don’t know, Daisy Edgar-Jones? Also, let’s not forget Rodrigo’s Glossier collab a couple years ago.
Retailers share top picks from CosmoProf Miami (WWD)
TLDR: For the uninitiated, CosmoProf hosts a series of B2B beauty trade shows around the world showcasing the latest in formulations, technology, packaging across the entire industry. It’s a great indicator of market trends and what sort of innovation we can expect to see in the next year or so ahead. LED lights proved to be a major standout this year—and not just the classic full-face masks we’re used to. Think light-up under-eye patches and lip masks, as well as devices targeting scalp health, hair growth, and even muscle tension. Apparently skin-longevity brand Metamorphosis had a ton of buzz—these shooting star LED eye masks are adorable. Other notables include a renewed interest in K-beauty (but I already told you that); innovative fragrance formats, like serums, balms, and sticks; the skin-ification of haircare (think hyaluronic acid in conditioners); multi-functional body-care products, like self-tanners that hydrate the skin and antioxidant-filled SPF formulas; and brands specifically targeting men.
The aforementioned Metamorphosis eye masks. Cute! The GO Take: This is the stuff I really nerd out over. LED light therapy devices are among the most effective at-home products you can use (at least when used consistently), so it makes sense that brands would really push the bounds in the space. I have an LED spot treatment device somewhere in my collection that I received a couple y ears ago—if memory serves, I believe the brand had to resend the product at least once, if not twice, because it kept malfunctioning, but once I got it to actually work, it was intriguing. I can’t say whether or not it actually helped with any pimples, but the idea was certainly there. Packaging-wise, expect to see a lot of bold colors and cutesy designs coming—very Gen Z-coded—as well as more innovative delivery systems for serums, moisturizers, and the like, with built-in metal rollers and apparatuses.
As Target, Walmart, and Amazon pull back on DEI programs, Ulta, Sephora, and Sally Beauty are reaffirming commitments to them (Beauty Independent)
TLDR: I’m sure we’re all aware one of the first things done under the new Trump administration was rolling back federal DEI programs. Target, Walmart, Amazon, and a number of other prominent American brands quickly followed suit. In response, Ulta, Sephora, and Sally Beauty are doubling down on their DEI initiatives. For some background, all three retailers implemented several DEI efforts supporting minority-founded brands and customers from a range of backgrounds and life circumstances following the murder of George Floyd in 2020 and the subsequent Black Lives Matter movement.
The GO Take: I mean, obviously this is good, but I don’t think it’s a move that necessarily deserves praise. The beauty industry is largely made up of women and queer people, so de-prioritizing DEI is simply bad for business. That reasoning isn’t commendable and I’d like to think that’s not the only factor at play for these retailers, but it’s important to keep in mind. I liked this quote from Aurora James, founder of the 15 Percent Pledge, in a Fashionista article: “Rolling back inclusion of all kinds at a time when consumers actually care even more about it, from a shopping perspective and a budget allocation perspective, is very bizarre.” And Tomi Talabi, founder of The Black Beauty Club, said the following to BI: “The companies that stay the course are the ones that see inclusivity as a business necessity, not a charitable effort. The real test will be whether these companies sustain their commitments beyond marketing and performative gestures, ensuring that inclusivity is woven into their long-term strategy, leadership and supply chain.”
Fresh on the Shelves
U Beauty Proem Eau de Parfum ($198 for 50 ml; $68 for 10 ml)
Release Date: Available now on U Beauty’s e-commerce site; available February 27 at Blue Mercury.
What It Is: U Beauty’s first scent is described as “a boldly feminine fragrance richly layered with floral, fruity, and earthy notes.” It seems like there’s a little bit of everything in there: jasmine, peony, magnolia, rose, lychee, vetiver, pistachio, pink peppercorn.
The GO Take: U Beauty rarely misses with its launches—I do think it sells an absurd amount of shades for a $68 lip balm, but it is a good lip balm. I was supposed to go to an event to celebrate earlier this week but unfortunately had to miss out, and I’m dying to smell it. Given that the brand has a $228 serum, I don’t think the EDP prices are especially outrageous. Founder Tina Chen Craig is, to put it bluntly, really cool and someone I’d definitely want to smell like. Hoping to get my hands on this soon.
Makeup by Mario Surreal Skin Foundation ($44)
Release Date: Available now on Makeup by Mario’s e-commerce site and Sephora.
What It Is: I know what you’re thinking—this foundation isn’t new. You’re right, but yesterday the brand announced the addition of nine new shades in more neutral tones. The foundation is great; easily buildable and leaves behind a beautiful radiant finish. And now there’s a higher likelihood you can find your perfect color match.
The GO Take: Obviously I included this in here for a reason: I think it’s a really smart move. I appreciate brands that listen to their customers and continue to improve their offerings, even after they’ve been put on the shelves. It shows a commitment to both the community and general excellence. Mario is all about the artistry of makeup and he proves it time and time again; this is yet another example of that.
Touchland Power Essence All-Over Body & Hair Mist ($20)
Release Date: Available now on Touchland’s e-commerce site and Sephora.
What It Is: A body and hair fragrance mist packed with skincare ingredients like hyaluronic acid and niacinamide, meant to leave hair and skin hydrated and refreshed. Available in eight scents, each comes in a cap-less, leak-proof bottle for maximum portability.
The GO Take: I’m a big fan of Touchland’s elevated hand sanitizers—I keep one in almost every bag—so it pains me to say, but this really misses the mark for me. The brand sent these over a couple weeks ago and they certainly smell nice, but, visually, the only difference between these and the original hand sanitizers is a slight size difference; these are larger and more rectangular, while the sanitizers are shorter. If the intent is to throw these in my bag and use them on the go, there’s an 100-percent chance I’m going to end up spraying the hand sanitizer in my hair. For me, it’s so egregious that no scent could redeem the product for me—it’s inherently flawed. I think the brand should’ve stuck to the personal care realm and launched an on-the-go deodorant or lightweight hand serum instead.
Most Valuable Product
Haus Labs B Structural Volumizing and Lengthening Mascara ($29)
Why It Stood Out: My eyelashes are long and thick (thanks, Latisse) but stubbornly straight. I have a three-step pre-mascara routine that helps create a curl, but it’s best when paired with a really good mascara. The first day I wore this one, five separate people complimented my lashes. The formula is notably dry and lightweight, which helps hold a curl and avoid clumping. But what makes this really great is the fanned-out effect it gives my lashes—the brand claims it delivers “5X fanned-out volume,” though I’m not sure what that means (five times more than what?). Apparently the formula also nourishes and strengthens lashes with continued use, though I’m not particularly concerned about that.
Final Thoughts
Thanks for making it this far. I’m about to hit the four-month mark on the wedding countdown and things have been crazy in Dani-land—I had a screaming match and subsequent emotional breakdown about fonts earlier this week. This newsletter has been a much-needed (and quite fun) respite from it all.
Speaking of which, I’ve been mulling over a few options for my first deep dive: Would people prefer a look into the products I’ve actually finished in 2025 so far, what I’ve been doing to prep for the wedding, or a breakdown of at-home devices and if they’re worth your money? Let me know below:
Talk soon! Xx
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